Dr.Biol. A.V. Voronov¹
Dr.Hab., Professor P.V. Kvashuk¹
A.A. Voronova¹
PhD T.V. Krasnoperova^2
1Federal Research Center for Physical Culture and Sports (FRS VNIIIFK
²St. Petersburg Scientific Research Institute of Physical Culture, St. Petersburg

Objective of the present study was to identify muscles that provide the increase of rates in speed climbing. For this purpose, we used the SportLab hardware-software complex (Russia) consisting of an 8-channel telemetric electromyograph and a video camera. The experiment involved 10 climbers (qualified MS – CMS – I Class) including 4 males and 6 females. The athletes ran the distance at slow, average and maximum speed. The distance speed was picked individually. The distance time was registered using the video camera (frame rate - 50 Hz). The beginning of the first movement was taken as a zero point (start), the touch of a control point – as finish. The subjects performed at least 2 successful (without disruption) attempts at each speed rate. The rest breaks between the races were 8-10 min.
Based on the registration and analysis of the electromyographic activity data, we determined the muscles influencing the rates in sport climbing. The data obtained showed that regardless of the athletes’ sports qualification there are two muscle groups affecting the sports results: m. gastrocnemius medialis and m. biceps brahii. The significant increase in the average EMG amplitude of some muscles suggests that these muscles are the "leading" ones when approaching record speeds. In this study, these are m. gastrocnemius medialis and m. trapezius.

Keywords: muscle electromyogram, climbing, regression analysis.

References

1. Vlasenko P.S. Kolichestvennoe opredelenie spetsialnoy izometricheskoy sily myishts–sgibateley paltsev i ee vzaimosvyaz s proyavleniem silovykh sposobnostey pri zanyatii skalolazaniem [Quantitative determination of special isometric strength of finger flexor muscles and its relationship with display of strength abilities in climbing]. Teoriya i praktika fiz. kultury. 2013.no. 2 (28). pp. 46-49.
2. Voronov A.V. Anatomicheskie stroenie i skorostno-silovye svoystva myshts nizhney konechnosti cheloveka [Anatomical structure and speed-strength properties of lower limb muscles in man]. Doct. diss. abstr. Biol.. М., 2004. 50 p.
3. Esposito F., Limonta E., E. Cè, Gobbo M., Veicsteinas A., Orizi C. Electrical and mechanical response of finger flexor muscles during voluntary isometric contractions in elite rock-climbers. European Journal Applied Physiology. 2009, no. 105.pp. 81-92.
4. Esposito F.,· Limonta E., E. Cè, Gobbo M. , Veicsteinas A., Orizi C. Electrical and mechanical response of finger flexor muscles during voluntary isometric contractions in elite rock-climbers. European Journal Applied Physiology. 2009.no. 105. pp. 81-92.
5. Laffaye G., Collin J.-M., Levernier G., J. Padulo Determinant factors in climbing ability: Influence of strength, anthropometry, and neuromuscular fatigue. Scandinavian Journal Medicine and Sciencein Sports. 2015. no. 26 (10).pp. 1-9.
6. Laffaye G., Levernier G., Collin J.-M. Upper-limb Power Test in Rock-climbing. Inernational Sport Medicine. 2014.no.  35.pp. 670-675.
7. Phillip B.W., Randall L.J., Agena† S.M., Majchrzak J.A., Schellinger R.A., Wubbels C.S. Changes in EMG and finger force with repeated hangs from the hands in rock climbers. Itnernational Journal of Exercise Science.2008.no. 1 (2).pp.62-70.
8. Schweizer C.A., Furrer M. Сorrelation of forearm strength and sport climbing performance. Isokinetics and Exercise Science 2013. –no.  15. pp. 211-216.
9. Vigouroux L., de Monsabert B., Berton E. Estimation of hand and wrist muscle capacities in rock climbers. European Journal Applied Physiology. 2015. no. 115 pp. 947-957.